Joshua Tree National Park is renowned for its iconic rock formations, world-class climbing, and breathtaking desert landscapes. While popular routes like "Hidden Valley Campground" and "Intersection Rock" attract climbers from around the globe, there are numerous hidden gems waiting to be discovered by those willing to explore a bit further.
In this blog, we'll unveil some lesser-known climbing routes in Joshua Tree, complete with route grades and gear requirements. If you're ready to embark on a unique climbing adventure in this beautiful desert sanctuary, read on!
Pros
Solitude and Serenity: Fewer climbers on these routes mean more solitude and a quieter, more intimate experience with the breathtaking desert landscape. You can enjoy the natural beauty and serenity of Joshua Tree without the crowds.
Adventure and Exploration: Climbing lesser-known routes often involves a sense of exploration and adventure. You'll have the opportunity to blaze your own trail, discover hidden gems, and feel a greater connection to the wilderness.
Reduced Impact on the Environment: Less traffic on these routes generally means less environmental impact. Climbers can help preserve the fragile desert ecosystem by choosing routes that are off the beaten path.
Unique Challenges: Lesser-known routes often present unique and interesting challenges that can test your climbing skills in different ways. These routes can offer a refreshing change of pace for experienced climbers seeking new adventures.
Cons
Limited Information: Information and beta on lesser-known routes may be scarce. This lack of information can make route-finding and planning more challenging, potentially leading to navigational difficulties.
Risk and Safety Concerns: Climbing on less-traveled routes can come with increased safety risks. Loose rock, less reliable anchor points, and the absence of well-maintained trails can pose hazards for climbers.
Minimal Crowds, But Less Help: While solitude is a pro, it can also be a con. On popular routes, you might find more experienced climbers who can offer assistance or guidance if needed. On lesser-known routes, you may be on your own in case of emergencies.
Potentially Less Established Climbing Infrastructure: Popular routes often have well-maintained access trails, established belay and rappel anchors, and clear signage. Lesser-known routes may lack these amenities, making your climbing experience less convenient.
Oyster Bar - 5.8
Located in the Wonderland of Rocks, Oyster Bar is a moderately rated climb offering a beautiful and less crowded alternative to some of the park's busier routes. The route follows a crack system and features solid holds throughout. Gear for this climb typically includes a set of cams (from small to hand-sized), nuts, and several quickdraws. A helmet is recommended due to the possibility of loose rock.
Climb Length: Oyster Bar is typically a single-pitch climb, which means it can vary in length but is usually around 80-100 feet.
Approach Time: The approach to Oyster Bar takes approximately 15-20 minutes, starting from the Wonderland of Rocks parking area.
Parking: Park at the Wonderland of Rocks parking area along the main park road.
Three Nearby Routes to Consider:
"The Chube" - 5.9
"Lazy Day" - 5.7
"Double Dip" - 5.10a
The Eye - 5.6
The Eye is a hidden treasure in the Wonderland of Rocks known for its unique, eye-shaped feature. This route offers a gentle introduction to Joshua Tree climbing. Climbers will need a set of nuts, cams, and a few long slings. Don't forget to bring plenty of water, as the approach can be deceptively long on hot desert days.
Climb Length: The Eye is typically a single-pitch climb, with a length of around 60-70 feet.
Approach Time: The approach to The Eye takes approximately 10-15 minutes from the Wonderland of Rocks parking area.
Parking: Park at the Wonderland of Rocks parking area along the main park road.
Three Nearby Routes to Consider:
"Bearded Cabbage" - 5.7
"Flirting with Chaos" - 5.9
"Gorky Park" - 5.10a
Atlantis Wall - 5.10a
For those seeking a bit more challenge, Atlantis Wall is a superb choice. This route features a variety of technical moves, including thin crack climbing and face climbing. A single set of cams and nuts, along with some small to medium-sized stoppers, is typically sufficient. Be prepared for exposure, as this climb offers stunning views of the park.
Climb Length: Atlantis Wall is typically a single-pitch climb with a length of approximately 70-80 feet.
Approach Time: The approach to Atlantis Wall takes around 20-30 minutes from the Hidden Valley Campground parking area.
Parking: Park at the Hidden Valley Campground parking area, a popular starting point for many climbs.
Three Nearby Routes to Consider:
"Atlantis" - 5.11a
"Trashcan Rock Crack" - 5.9
"Drifting" - 5.10b
Rubicon - 5.9
Rubicon is a classic Joshua Tree climb that often goes unnoticed by the crowds. It offers sustained hand and finger jams and a memorable finish. A set of nuts and cams (with an emphasis on hand-sized pieces), along with extra slings for anchors and runners, will serve you well on this route.
Climb Length: Rubicon is typically a single-pitch climb with a length of approximately 80-90 feet.
Approach Time: The approach to Rubicon takes around 15-20 minutes from the Hidden Valley Campground parking area.
Parking: Park at the Hidden Valley Campground parking area.
Three Nearby Routes to Consider:
"Feather in Your Cap" - 5.7
"Cactus Flower Tower" - 5.6
"Lost Horse" - 5.10a
Sail Away - 5.8
Located in the Wonderland South area, Sail Away is a hidden gem offering an enjoyable mix of crack and face climbing. Climbers should carry a standard rack of nuts and cams, with a focus on medium-sized cams. The route requires careful protection placement due to its flaring cracks.
Climb Length: Sail Away is typically a single-pitch climb, with a length of approximately 80-90 feet.
Approach Time: The approach to Sail Away takes around 10-15 minutes from the Wonderland South parking area.
Parking: Park at the Wonderland South parking area.
Three Nearby Routes to Consider:
"Beck's Start" - 5.6
"Hidden Dome Left" - 5.9
"Haram Scaram" - 5.10a
Ragged Edges - 5.10c
Ragged Edges offers a more challenging climbing experience, with thin and technical moves. Climbers should be proficient in crack climbing techniques and should bring a rack of small to medium-sized cams, nuts, and plenty of quickdraws for this sustained climb.
Climb Length: Ragged Edges is typically a single-pitch climb with a length of approximately 70-80 feet.
Approach Time: The approach to Ragged Edges takes around 20-30 minutes from the Wonderland of Rocks parking area.
Parking: Park at the Wonderland of Rocks parking area along the main park road.
Three Nearby Routes to Consider:
"Leave it to Beaver" - 5.9
"Toe Jam" - 5.7
"Walk on the Wild Side" - 5.10a
Bird on a Wire - 5.10a
Located in Echo Rock, Bird on a Wire offers a unique mix of crack and face climbing. The route follows a diagonal crack system, requiring a good selection of cams and nuts. Climbers should also be prepared to place gear from strenuous stances.
Climb Length: Bird on a Wire is typically a single-pitch climb with a length of around 80-90 feet.
Approach Time: The approach to Bird on a Wire takes approximately 10-15 minutes from the Echo Rock parking area.
Parking: Park at the Echo Rock parking area.
Three Nearby Routes to Consider:
"Dappled Mare" - 5.8
"Double Cross" - 5.7
"Toe Jam" - 5.7
The Coffin - 5.9
The Coffin is an adventurous climb situated in the Wonderland South area. It's known for its wide crack, providing a thrilling experience for those who love off-width climbing. Gear requirements include a selection of large cams (up to 6 inches) and slings for anchoring.
Climb Length: The Coffin is typically a single-pitch climb with a length of approximately 80-90 feet.
Approach Time: The approach to The Coffin takes around 10-15 minutes from the Wonderland South parking area.
Parking: Park at the Wonderland South parking area.
Three Nearby Routes to Consider:
"Bushman's Roof" - 5.9
"Double Dip" - 5.10a
"Trashcan Rock Crack" - 5.9
Tongue out and grabbing jugs, let’s go! Photo by Dalton Johnson
Joshua Tree National Park is a climbing paradise with a vast array of routes to explore. While the more popular climbs have their charm, don't overlook the hidden gems that offer solitude and unique challenges. Remember to always check current conditions, weather forecasts, and any park regulations before embarking on your climbing adventure. Additionally, it's crucial to have the appropriate climbing skills and experience for the routes you choose. Safety should be your top priority.
So, whether you're a seasoned climber looking for a new challenge or a beginner seeking to experience Joshua Tree's natural beauty, these lesser-known climbing routes are waiting to be discovered. Gear up, stay safe, and enjoy the thrill of climbing in this remarkable desert landscape.
