Yosemite National Park is the birthplace of American rock climbing, known for its humbling granite walls, carved by glacials. Rock climbing in Yosemite National Park should be a must visit for any rock climber because of the stellar granite splitters, the long routes, and history these walls hold. From El Capitan to Half Dome to Tuolumne Meadows, Yosemite rock climbing is diverse in it’s grades and access. Often the climbing will challenge rock climbers not only by the grade, but the style, mental and physical endurance it takes to climb in Yosemite National Park
Rock climbing in Yosemite National Park is a must for any rock climber, of any caliber. The massive granite walls will humble even the strongest climbers. Additionally, perfecting your rock craft in Yosemite will prepare climbers for more remote and mountainous rock climbs.
Read on to discover accessible rock climbs in Yosemite National Park, the difference between Tuolumne Meadows climbing vs Yosemite Valley rock climbing, and what gear you need to bring to rock climb in Yosemite National Park.
Rock Climbing a Yosemite Valley classic called Nut Cracker. Photograph by Dalton Johnson
Yosemite Valley vs Tuolumne Meadows
Tuolumne Meadows is located at a higher elevation in the Sierra Nevada mountains and offers a cooler climate compared to Yosemite Valley. The rock in Tuolumne is mostly granite, which tends to be more featured and less steep than the rock in Yosemite Valley. This makes climbing in Tuolumne a bit more technical, as climbers need to use different techniques to navigate the features on the rock. Tuolumne Meadows is also less crowded than Yosemite Valley, which offers a more peaceful and remote climbing experience.
In contrast, Yosemite Valley offers a more varied range of climbing experiences, with its steep granite walls and towering formations. The rock in Yosemite is known for its smoothness, which offers a different type of challenge to climbers. Yosemite Valley also has a larger concentration of classic climbs, which have been established over the decades and have become popular climbing destinations. Yosemite Valley can be crowded, especially during peak season, but it offers a vibrant climbing community and access to many amenities.
Climbing Gear to Bring to Yosemite
Rock climbing in Yosemite National Park is varied, so the gear list is long. With that said, here's a list of some essential gear for rock climbing in Yosemite:
Climbing harness
Climbing shoes
Chalk bag and chalk
Belay device
70m Dynamic rope
Carabiners (locking and non-locking)
Quickdraws (5-15 depending on if you want to do some sport climbs or hard big walls)
Slings and runners
Helmet
Nut tool
Set of Nuts and offset nuts
Double rack of cams from .4 to 3 (you might need 4, 5, 6 depending on the climbs you have your eyes on)
Climbing helmet
Climbing pack
Climbing rope bag
Climbing guidebook
First aid kit
Headlamp and spare batteries
Sunscreen
Water bottle or hydration system
Snacks and food for the climb.
Rock Climbing on El Capitan in Yosemite National Park. Photograph by Dalton Johnson
6 Accessible Must Try Rock CLimbs of Yosemite Valley
If you can, try to plan a long weekend of climbing while you visit Yosemite Valley. If you don’t know how to climb, that isn’t a problem, there are several guide services who can and will take you rock climbing. So, make sure to add rock climbing to your To-Do list when you visit Yosemite Valley. Why? Yosemite Valley is the home of American rock climbing and is known for long routes and hard traditional climbing. However, the rock climbing in Yosemite is accessible to everyone. So, I put together a list of classic rock climbs that everyone should try in the 5.7 - 5.10 range.
THE SURPRISE (5.10A)
Where is the rock climb Surprise located?
The Surprise is located on the Five Open Books
Why add the rock climb Surprise to your To Do list?
The rock climb The Surprise (5.10a) is a stellar first valley 10. Why? Well, if you are looking to break into the 5.10 climbing in Yosemite Valley as one of your “To-Do’s” while you visit, this crack is perfect because you get a few warm up pitches to get your head screwed on. Then, you Exciting to open the door to a new milestone for climbing. The finger crack was really fun and what a surprise, hence the route’s name The Surprise, it is when the crack just disappears for a hot second and you make a few moves across some slab to a jug.
Recommended climbing rack:
Double cams .4 to 3 and one set of nuts, bring extra slings
THE NOSE (5.9 C2)
Where is the rock climb The Nose located?
The Nose is located on El Capitan
Why add the rock climb The Nose to your To Do list?
Let’s all be honest, if we are climbing in Yosemite Valley, there is one route we all wish to climb, The Nose. While the grade of the nose goes at 5.9 C2, most climbers see this climb as unattainable, but it isn’t. If you spend the time learning your systems, this granite monolith can be climbed!
Recommended climbing rack:
Big wall rack
ABSOLUTELY FREE (5.9)
Where is the rock climb Absolutely Free located?
Absolutely Free is located at Camp 4
Why add the rock climb Absolutely Free to your To Do list?
The rock climb Absolutely Free (5.9) in Yosemite Valley is the quintessential adventure route for it’s grade. This gorgeous route definitely did me in on the route finding! Going WAY off route on the "first" pitch up a random gully, because I misread the topo like a dolt, forcing myself to down climb the 90 feet I had just climbed. Not to mention, my partner was like, "hey man, maybe the route is to the right?" so, I went up again, another 120 feet, only to turn around and get my fill of down climbing for breakfast. Yup, about 210 feet of up and down-climbing. On the bright side, all gear was saved!
How do you avoid this? We shouldn't have roped up at the first gully that goes to the right as the route went left through a grove of trees and meandered around for about 200 feet more to the base of the climb. I'm just shaking my head at myself right now.
However, once we got to the base of the first pitch we were ready for some bomber hands and Absolutely Free provided just that! A classic Yosemite adventure route with splitter hands and low-angled, finger lie-backing. Not only was the climb stellar, the view up valley staring at Half Dome and Royal Arches was phenomenal!
Recommended climbing rack:
Double cams .4 to 3 and one set of nuts, bring extra slings
BISHOPS TERRACE (5.8)
Where is the rock climb Bishops Terrace located?
Bishops Terrace is located on Church Bowl
Why add the rock climb Bishops Terrace to your To Do list?
Bishops Terrace is a classic climb in Yosemite Valley located in Church Bowl. Some times this climb has a long queue and sometimes you have this climb to yourself. Why is that? Well, this climb doesn’t have much else around that compares to the quality and grade, so all of the 5.8 classic climbers want to hop on Bishops Terrace. If you do come to climb Bishops Terrace, I suggest climbing it in one pitch instead of the two pitches the book says. Logistically, this climb will become much easier for you if you climb it in one go.
Recommended climbing rack:
Doubles .4 to 3 and one set of nuts, bring extra slings
NUTCRACKER (5.7)
Where is the rock climb Nutcracker located?
Nutcrack is located on Manure Pile Buttress
Why add the rock climb Nutcracker to your To Do list?
In terms of classic climbs in Yosemite Valley, climbing Nutcracker, should be on your “To-Do” list. Why climb Nutcracker? The bulge pull. Yup! There is a rad bulge pull that is immediately intimidating upon arrival. However, once you step up to the overhead bulge, you find it has several weaknesses that will allow you pass. The Nutcracker is to be respected, meanwhile having a splendid time!
Recommended climbing rack:
Doubles cams .4 to 3 and one set of nuts, bring extra slings
THE GRACK CENTER (5.6)
Where is the rock climb The Grack Center located?
The Grack is located on Glacier Apron
Why add the rock climb The Grack Center to your To Do list?
In terms of wonderful first rock climbs in Yosemite Valley, climbing The Grack Center, might be the perfect answer. Why? The Grack Center has a grade of 5.6 and goes in three pitches, where the crux is a slab move that is relatively well protected. Additionally, the rappels are straight forward and well bolted. So, if you are looking to climb your first Yosemite multi-pitch rock climb, give The Grack Center a try. Personally, I have not had to wait in line for this climb, but I have heard stories of a long queue.
Recommended climbing rack:
Doubles cams .4 to 3 and one set of nuts, bring extra slings
Rock climbing Matthes Crest in Tuolumne Meadows. Photograph by Dalton Johnson
Accessible and Fun Tuolumne Meadows Rock Climbs
Rock climbing in Tuolumne Meadows is different from Yosemite Valley as the glacially carved dome climbing offers easier routes that are more committing. Also, Tuolumne Meadows is a great introductory into adventure climbing to help prepare yourself for alpine rock climbing in the High Sierra, or beyond. Some of the most accessible and fun rock climbs of Tuolumne Meadows are:
Matthes Crest (5.9)
Cathedral Peak (5.8)
Tenya Peak (5.5)
Regular Route on Fairview Dome (5.9)
West Crack on Daff Dome (5.9)
