Breaking our backs as we sling our packs over our shoulder, we locked the car and headed for one of the coolest camping spots I had ever seen. From photographs, we saw a chain of turquoise lakes surrounded by mountains. From the rumor mill, we heard the third lake was the best lake to sleep at, if you could secure your spot. We were ready for our three-day backpacking adventure into the North Fork of Big Pine.
Backpacking the North Fork of Big Pine in the Eastern Sierra is one of the premier backpacking outing in the Sierra Nevada Mountains. If you can secure a permit, you should go. Regardless if you make this trek as a day hike, or an overnight adventure, setting eyes on the the incredible Temple Crag will leave you speechless.
Read on to discover how to get permits, the route details, a tentative itinerary, and more info on this incredible backpacking opportunity in the Eastern Sierra.
Backpacking the North Fork of Big Pine to Third Lake in the Eastern Sierra. Photograph by Dalton Johnson
Route OVerview
TRAILHEAD: North Fork of Big Pine
Distance: 12.5 miles round trip
Elevation Gain: 2,800 feet
Ideal three day Backpacking Itinerary:
After visiting the North Fork of Big Pine several times, I have come to find that a three day backpacking trip is the ideal way to experience this iconic Eastern Sierra gem. The total distance car-to-car to third lake and back is roughly 13 miles and takes 6 to 7 hours, so day hikes are difficult. For myself, I prefer to enjoy the nature I worked my buns off to see, so I suggest going out for two nights to experience this area. Why two nights?
There are several lakes in the surrounding area that are fun to experience, great for swimming, and a day hike to Palisade Glacier that can take a full day. So, to get the most bang for your buck, come out here for two nights so you can spend one full day in the area to exploring!
Day One:
Arrive at the trailhead and get your packs ready to go, make sure you have your permits! Once the whole party is present, head up the trail for your target destination. My suggestion is to head directly to you camping spot so you can secure your spot, then go play.
Day Two:
After a full nights rest, wake up early, make some coffee, and watch the sunrise grace the top of Temple Crag. After a quick breakfast, make the time to hike and swim in as many other lakes as possible. There is a ton to do around the area, so bring a day pack, some water, snacks, and a towel. Most likely you will be gone all day if you do this right. Then, enjoy your dinner as the sunsets.
If you are feeling up for an adventure, skip the lake swims and head to the Palisade Glacier. This is an additional several miles, but is easily done in a single day. For me, seeing a glacier in California blew my mind. I didn’t know that we had glaciers in California this size. Make sure to be safe on your journey if you go this way as the trail will fade as you enter the terminal moraine of the Palisade Glacier.
Not matter how you enjoyed your day, make sure to stay up and watch the stars for a few hours. This area as very little light pollution, so the stars are typically POPP’N.
Day Three:
Wake up early and enjoy your coffee with a view. Most likely you will need to pack up and head out soon, but take your time. On your way down, stop in at the lakes and take a dip in all of them.
WHAT MAKES CAMPING AT TEMPLE CRAG SPECIAL?
Regardless which lake along the the North Fork of Big Pine you decide to camp at, you are in for a treat. However, camping at third lake, under Temple Crag, is GORGEOUS! My mind was blown as I drank my warm coffee and soaked in the views of the morning light touching the tips of Temple Crag and working their way down to the glacier fed lake. Even as I write this, I can still see recall the way my hands embraced the warm cup of coffee and jaw dropping as the light moved across the face of the granite mountain. This spot holds magic.
Additionally, the unique turquoise color of the water comes from the minerals run off of the Palisade Glacier several hours further up the trail. If you give yourself an extra night of camping, you should make the additional trek up to the Palisade Glacier. If you do embark on this journey, be ready for a long and arduous journey over boulders and scree. While that may sound difficult, don’t let it hold you back, the views are outstanding!
HOW LONG DOES IT TAKE TO HIKE TO AND CAMP AT TEMPLE CRAG?
If you are planning on camping at Third Lake, be prepared to hike with a fully loaded pack for 4-5 hours. Most of the hike is uphill and you will want to stop frequently at the lakes. If you have a swim suit, or your birthday suit, I highly suggest swimming in all of the lakes. They are not only a great way to refresh yourself, but they are a fantastic way to have some fun along the way!
HOW POPULAR IS CAMPING AT TEMPLE CRAG?
The word is out and over the years, the popularity of this backpacking route has increased. Because of the increased traffic this trailhead now has a daily quota for backpackers due to the limited camping spots surrounding the lake. The good news, if you are trying to sleep anywhere other than Third Lake, getting a permit is easy. But, snagging a permit for Third Lake is hard to come by these days, so apply early!
ADDITIONAL NOTES ABOUT CAMPING AT TEMPLE CRAG:
Backpacking and camping around Temple Crag and near the Third Lake of Big Pine is some of the best camping I have done in the Eastern Sierra. With that said, there are a few additional notes that I would like to make:
Pros:
The beauty is next to none
The rock climbing on Temple Crag is highly sought after
Make sure to go swimming
If you can’t find a camping spot at Third Lake, check out some to of the other lakes, they are just as exquisite
Cons:
Influencers in the wild is a real thing here and can take away from your experience
The increase in popularity has hurt this eco-system, especially with those not following LNT best practices
Fresh water is hard to find if you are camping at the lakes, you’ll need to walk a ways
Soaking in the views and dreaming of climbing on Temple Crag after backpacking in from the North Fork of Big Pine. Photograph by Dalton Johnson
Now that you have discovered how to get permits, the route details, and a tentative itinerary it is your turn to get outside and explore this amazing landscape in the Eastern Sierra Mountains. If you have any additional information for fellow backpackers, please drop a comment below.
