Updated: 5/16/24
Naturally, if you’re interested in rock climbing and planning to visit Yosemite, you owe it to yourself to slot your hands in the splitter cracks Yosemite Valley has to offer. Of course, you will be able to tick “rock climbing in Yosemite” off your bucket list, but there are so many more reasons than that. Climbing Yosemite’s clean granite routes is pure pleasure – whether you’re dancing up thin slabs on dime-edge holds, pulling for all you’re worth on splitter cracks, or pinching crystals in Yosemite’s high country. Plus, the view really is better when you’ve earned unique sights from above the treetops and eye-level with the birds.
But, where do you start? This guide is a good place as below I have outlined six accessible, yet incredibly fun, rock climbing classics in Yosemite Valley. Now, all you need to do is read the article and pack your bags.
So, let’s dive into the six rock climbs, between 5.6 to 5.10, you should consider attempting on your first visit to Yosemite:
Taylor coming across the traverse pitch of The Surprise while rock climbing in Yosemite Valley. Photograph by Dalton Johnson
THE SURPRISE (5.10A)
WHERE IS THE ROCK CLIMB SURPRISE LOCATED?
The Surprise is located on the Five Open Books
WHY ADD THE ROCK CLIMB SURPRISE TO YOUR TO DO LIST?
The rock climb The Surprise (5.10a) is a stellar first valley 10. Why? Well, if you are looking to break into the 5.10 climbing in Yosemite Valley as one of your “To-Do’s” while you visit, this crack is perfect because you get a few warm up pitches to get your head screwed on. Then, you start up the final pitch.
Exciting to open the door to a new milestone for climbing. The finger crack was really fun and what a surprise, hence the route’s name The Surprise, it is when the crack just disappears for a hot second and you make a few moves across some slab to a jug.
RECOMMENDED CLIMBING RACK:
One set of nuts and a nut tool
Rock climbing shoes like the TC Pro, Mythos, or any other all-day climbing shoe
How many pitches is The Surprise?
The Surprise can be done in 3 long pitches, but 5 are recommended. If you are going to link pitches, link 1 and 2, as well as 3 and 4. The roof on pitch 5 should be climbed on it’s own to avoid rope drag.
How long does it take to climb The Surprise (including the approach and descent)?
The Surprise will take 4-7 hours to climb from car to car for those new to rock climbing in Yosemite Valley. Experience climbers can finish this climb in 2-3 hours, if not faster.
Other climbs close to The Surprise:
THE NOSE (5.9 C2)
WHERE IS THE ROCK CLIMB THE NOSE LOCATED?
The Nose is located on El Capitan
WHY ADD THE ROCK CLIMB THE NOSE TO YOUR TO DO LIST?
Let’s all be honest, if we are climbing in Yosemite Valley, there is one route we all wish to climb, The Nose on El Cap. While the grade of the nose goes at 5.9 C2, most climbers see this climb as unattainable, but it isn’t. If you spend the time learning your systems, this granite monolith can be climbed! So, if you are feeling intimidated by El Cap, head to El Cap meadow to chill with friends and stare at the granite wall, maybe walk to the base and climb some of the single pitch routes along its base.
RECOMMENDED CLIMBING RACK:
Big wall rack
How many pitches is The Nose?
The Nose can be done in 31 pitches. There are several link ups available, so study the topos in the Yosemite Valley guide book.
How long does it take to climb The Nose (including the approach and descent)?
The Nose will take 3-5 days to climb from car to car, but the current speed record is just under two hours. Just take a second for that to sink in.
Other climbs close to The Nose:
Climber selecting his climbing rack to climb Absolutely Free in Yosemite Valley. Photograph by Dalton Johnson
ABSOLUTELY FREE (5.9)
WHERE IS THE ROCK CLIMB ABSOLUTELY FREE LOCATED?
Absolutely Free is located at Camp 4
WHY ADD THE ROCK CLIMB ABSOLUTELY FREE TO YOUR TO DO LIST?
The rock climb Absolutely Free (5.9) in Yosemite Valley is the quintessential adventure route for it’s grade. This gorgeous route definitely did me in on the route finding! Going WAY off route on the "first" pitch up a random gully, because I misread the topo like a dolt, forcing myself to down climb the 90 feet I had just climbed. Not to mention, my partner was like, "hey man, maybe the route is to the right?" so, I went up again, another 120 feet, only to turn around and get my fill of down climbing for breakfast. Yup, about 210 feet of up and down-climbing. On the bright side, all gear was saved!
How do you avoid this? We shouldn't have roped up at the first gully that goes to the right as the route went left through a grove of trees and meandered around for about 200 feet more to the base of the climb. I'm just shaking my head at myself right now.
However, once we got to the base of the first pitch we were ready for some bomber hands and Absolutely Free provided just that! A classic Yosemite adventure route with splitter hands and low-angled, finger lie-backing. Not only was the climb stellar, the view up valley staring at Half Dome and Royal Arches was phenomenal!
RECOMMENDED CLIMBING RACK:
One set of nuts and a nut tool
Rock climbing shoes like the TC Pro, Mythos, or any other all-day climbing shoe
How many pitches is ABSOLUTELY FREE?
Absolutely Free can be done in 3 pitches. As this pitch wanders, I would not suggest link ups
How long does it take to climb ABSOLUTELY FREE (including the approach and descent)?
Absolutely Free will take 4-6 hours to climb from car to car
BISHOPS TERRACE (5.8)
WHERE IS THE ROCK CLIMB BISHOPS TERRACE LOCATED?
Bishops Terrace is located on Church Bowl
WHY ADD THE ROCK CLIMB BISHOPS TERRACE TO YOUR TO DO LIST?
Bishops Terrace is a classic climb in Yosemite Valley located in Church Bowl. Some times this climb has a long queue and sometimes you have this climb to yourself. Why is that? Well, this climb doesn’t have much else around that compares to the quality and grade, so all of the 5.8 classic climbers want to hop on Bishops Terrace. If you do come to climb Bishops Terrace, I suggest climbing it in one pitch instead of the two pitches the book says. Logistically, this climb will become much easier for you if you climb it in one go.
RECOMMENDED CLIMBING RACK:
One set of nuts and a nut tool
Rock climbing shoes like the TC Pro, Mythos, or any other all-day climbing shoe
How many pitches is Bishops Terrace?
Bishops Terrace can be done in 1 pitch, I would not recommend doing it in two pitches unless you only have a single rack
How long does it take to climb Bishops Terrace (including the approach and descent)?
Bishops Terrace will take 1-2 hours to climb from car to car
Other climbs close to Bishops Terrace:
The NUTCRACKER (5.7)
WHERE IS THE ROCK CLIMB the NUTCRACKER LOCATED?
Nutcrack is located on Manure Pile Buttress
WHY ADD THE ROCK CLIMB NUTCRACKER TO YOUR TO DO LIST?
In terms of classic climbs in Yosemite Valley, climbing The Nutcracker, should be on your “To-Do” list. Why climb Nutcracker? The bulge pull. Yup! There is a rad bulge pull that is immediately intimidating upon arrival. However, once you step up to the overhead bulge, you find it has several weaknesses that will allow you pass. The Nutcracker is to be respected, meanwhile having a splendid time!
RECOMMENDED CLIMBING RACK:
One set of nuts and a nut tool
Rock climbing shoes like the TC Pro, Mythos, or any other all-day climbing shoe
How many pitches is The Nutcracker?
The Nutcracker can be done in 5 pitches, with that said to keep the crowds moving I would suggest doing this climb in 3-4 pitches
How long does it take to climb The Nutcracker (including the approach and descent)?
The Nutcracker will take 3-6 hours to climb from car to car
Other climbs close to Nutcracker:
Sitting on the summit of The Grack Center while rock climbing in Yosemite Valley. Photograph by Dalton Johnson
THE GRACK CENTER (5.6)
WHERE IS THE ROCK CLIMB THE GRACK CENTER LOCATED?
The Grack is located on Glacier Apron
WHY ADD THE ROCK CLIMB THE GRACK CENTER TO YOUR TO DO LIST?
In terms of wonderful first rock climbs in Yosemite Valley, climbing The Grack Center, might be the perfect answer. Why? The Grack Center has a grade of 5.6 and goes in three pitches, where the crux is a slab move that is relatively well protected. Additionally, the rappels are straight forward and well bolted. So, if you are looking to climb your first Yosemite multi-pitch rock climb, give The Grack Center a try. Personally, I have not had to wait in line for this climb, but I have heard stories of a long queue.
RECOMMENDED CLIMBING RACK:
One set of nuts and a nut tool
Rock climbing shoes like the TC Pro, Mythos, or any other all-day climbing shoe
How many pitches is The Grack Center?
The Grack Center can be done in 3 pitches
How long does it take to climb The Grack Center (including the approach and descent)?
The Grack Center will take 3-6 hours to climb from car to car
Other climbs close to The Grack Center:
A sunset view of Half Dome, dusted in snow, from the bridge. Photo by Dalton Johnson
Yosemite Valley stands as an unmissable destination for anyone with a passion for rock climbing. Beyond its iconic status, this geological wonderland offers a profound connection with nature and a sense of personal triumph that transcends words. As you scale the granite walls of Yosemite, you'll not only discover your own strength and agility but also forge a lasting connection with the breathtaking landscapes that surround you.
Each ascent is a unique journey, an opportunity to challenge yourself, and a chance to experience the sheer joy of climbing amidst the grandeur of Yosemite's natural wonders.
