Todos Santos is a cute and quaint town, founded on the export of sugar, with a superb suburb of beach oasis like Cerritos Beach, Tuna Beach, Turtle Beach, and the Green Room. While Todos Santos is technically land locked, the beaches are a 10 to 20 minute drive away. Additionally, Todos Santos has an amazing art and live music scene to explore.
The golden light of sunset at Cerritos Beach just outside of Todos Santos. Photograph by Dalton Johnson
WHY SHOULD I VISIT TODOS SANTOS?
Todos Santos is a small-town, with a laidback vibes feels a world away from Los Cabos. While you visit Todos Santos enjoy the quaint old town, boutique hotels, incredible food, and “artsy” characteristics that make Todos Santos special.
Todos Santos has a cute town center and is full of character
The Hotel California resides here
Lots of live music and great places to eat
Todos Santos is an artist vibe kind of place
If you need to fix anything, there are several hardware and auto stores
Where Is Todos Santos?
From Los Cabos: Todos Santos is a safe drive from Cabos San Lucas, on a four lane highway with occasional dividers, that takes about 90 minutes drive. To get to Todos Santos from Los Cabos take Highway 19 north for 70 kilometers. There is a split on the highway and you will take a right, following the signs to Todos Santos. The drive from Cabo to Todos Santos is beautiful because the ocean is on your left the entire drive, make sure to watch for whales jumping!
From La Paz: Todos Santos is a safe drive from La Paz, on a two lane highway often with dividers, that takes about 90 minutes drive. To get to Todos Santos from La Paz take Highway 19 south for 80 kilometers. There will be a right hand turn in the middle of the drive to stay on 19 south. From there, continue on Highway 19 south until the exit for Todos Santos. Exit and head into town.
History of Todos Santos:
Todos Santos was established in 1723 when the Jesuits established a Mission in the area. The Jesuits were preaching Christianity and trying to convert the native people that lived in the nearby mountains. The people that settled here took advantage of the area’s fertile soil and began to plant crops, and the area eventually became a major sugar cane producing area. You can still see a few of the five “molinos” or sugar can processing plants that operated in this area for over 100 years.
In the 1950s there was a drought that caused the water table to dry up, which led to the molinos closing. Todos Santos was basically off the grid until 1984, when the road between Cabo San Lucas and Todos Santos was paved. Todos Santos became a popular place among artist sand other creatives, drawn to the quiet lifestyle of a traditional Mexican village.
Todos Santos has continued to grow in popularity. In 2006, Todos Santos was designated as a Pueblo Mágico by the Mexican government for its historical relevance, cultural riches and natural beauty.
Today, Todos Santos is booming as tourism is waking this town from its drought.
IS TODOS SANTOS VAN LIFE FRIENDLY?
Exploring the town of Todos Santos in a van will feel tight, as the corners are sharp and the parking is small, but the people will love you. I would suggest exploring and sleeping outside of the town. Some of the best times I have had in the van has been north of Todos Santos.
To the north of Todos Santos, you will find endless beaches and solitude for a few hundred miles. When heading north to beach camp, check in with the farmers who own the land.
If you head south, to Pescadero or Cerritos Beach, understand there has been a housing boom that is making van life and beach camping harder. Regardless, you will be able to find a place to park your van and beach camp.
Losing my fifth consecutive game of connect four while camping on a beach north of Todos Santos. Photograph by Dalton Johnson
IS THERE SURFING AT TODOS SANTOS?
Todos Santos itself is land-locked, so there is no surfing, but the towns on the outskirts contain some of the best surfing in Baja. Cerritos Beach has boomed in the last five years, adding condos and houses for ex-pats. Most of these folks are older but share well. The locals are kind and the overall vibe of the surf is mellow. If you are lucky, you will be in Cerritos for a big swell! I’ve surfed the point when it was 15+ feet and you can get stand-up barrels.
If you want to learn how to surf, or just get info about the break, talk with Juan and Carlos at CRT Surf School while at Playa Los Cerritos. If you tell them “DALTON sent you” you will most likely get a discount.
Fishing charter with locals in pongas in Todos Santos, BCS. Photograph by Dalton Johnson
WHAT ELSE CAN I DO AT TODOS SANTOS?
As Todos Santos grows, the opportunities grow alongside the tourism. Most of the activities around Todos Santos are inexpensive in comparison to Cabo, so let loose and have some fun with doing some of the activities listed below:
Whale watching from Playa Los Tunas
Fishing Charters on a ponga boat next to Hotel Cristobal
Hiking to the abandoned Sugar Mill
Off-roading north of Todos Santos
Release turtles at Playa Los Tortugas
Visit Hotel California in the center of Todos Santos
Best RESTAURANTS of Todos Santos:
Barracuda Cantina
Barracuda Cantina is now serving up tacos and cocktails at Plaza Amigos, a downtown community space with shops, various food purveyors, and plenty of space to eat outside. Their original location is at Cerritos Beach, and both spots serve fresh ceviche and fish tacos (along with a fried avocado taco that will please vegetarians).
The Green Room
A drink at The Green Room is worth having anytime, but especially so at sunset, when surfers are getting their last waves of the day and you can watch them from the restaurant with your feet in the sand and a mezcal in hand.
Hierbabuena
Outside of town, take advantage of the area’s stellar agriculture by dining on wood-fired pizza and super fresh salads at Hierbabuena, a sweet alfresco restaurant located within an organic farm.
Jazamango
You can’t go wrong with the farm-to-table fare at Jazamango, where chef Javier Plascencia serves up a menu of locally sourced fish—oysters, ceviche—as well as crowd-pleasers like burrata with heirloom tomatoes and wood-fired pizzas. Diners eat al fresco beneath vine-covered canopies at tables that are strategically placed so each party feels like they have their own private corner.
Taller 17
The best pastries in town are made by Julyanna Ortega and her team at Taller 17. Every morning brings a fresh array of sweets, from cinnamon buns to lemon meringue pie and a blondie that will stick in your mind for months after. This is the place to get cold brew, too.
