Joshua Tree National Park is a climber's paradise with its unique rock formations and endless climbing opportunities. While the park offers routes for climbers of all levels, intermediate climbers have the chance to explore some of the most exhilarating routes in the world.
In this guide, we'll introduce you to the top 10 must-climb routes in Joshua Tree for intermediate climbers, each with its own unique charm and challenge.
Maddy making casual work up this Joshua Tree 5.10. Photo by Dalton Johnson
Dappled Mare - Hidden Valley Campground (5.10a)
Dappled Mare is a classic crack climb that winds its way up a beautiful, varnished Joshua Tree formation. It offers a mix of hand and finger jams, perfect for intermediate climbers looking to hone their crack climbing skills. The route also provides a stunning view of the surrounding valley.
Why Climb Dappled Mare? This climb is a perfect introduction to crack climbing in Joshua Tree. Its solid rock and well-defined crack make it a reliable choice for intermediate climbers looking to test their jamming techniques.
Route Details:
Where is the climb? Hidden Valley Campground
What gear is needed for the climb? Standard rack with a focus on cams for crack protection.
How long is the climb? Approximately 70 feet.
How long is the approach? A short 10-minute walk from the Hidden Valley Campground parking lot.
Where do I park for the climb? Hidden Valley Campground parking lot.
Sail Away - Wonderland North (5.9)
Sail Away is a fantastic friction climb, offering Joshua Tree's signature slab climbing experience. Intermediate climbers will find this route challenging yet rewarding. The climb follows a beautiful, glassy slab with just enough features to keep you engaged.
Why Climb Sail Away? Sail Away is a testament to Joshua Tree's unique climbing style. It's a must-try for intermediate climbers looking to improve their slab technique.
Route Details:
Where is the climb? Wonderland North area.
What gear is needed for the climb? A standard rack with a focus on small to medium-sized cams and nuts.
How long is the climb? Approximately 100 feet.
How long is the approach? A 20-minute walk from the Wonderland North parking area.
Where do I park for the climb? Wonderland North parking area.
Walk on the Wild Side - Echo Rock (5.8)
Walk on the Wild Side is a diverse climb that combines crack, face, and slab techniques. This adventure offers a bit of everything, making it an ideal choice for intermediate climbers seeking variety.
Why Climb Walk on the Wild Side? This climb showcases the eclectic nature of Joshua Tree climbing. It's perfect for climbers looking to expand their skill set.
Route Details:
Where is the climb? Echo Rock area.
What gear is needed for the climb? A standard rack with a mix of gear for various types of climbing.
How long is the climb? Approximately 100 feet.
How long is the approach? A 15-minute approach from the Echo Rock parking area.
Where do I park for the climb? Echo Rock parking area.
Double Cross - Intersection Rock (5.7)
Double Cross is a Joshua Tree classic and one of the most sought-after moderate climbs in the park. It's a clean and exposed corner crack climb, making it a fantastic introduction to traditional climbing techniques.
Why Climb Double Cross? Climbing Double Cross is like stepping into history. This iconic climb is a rite of passage for any intermediate climber visiting Joshua Tree.
Route Details:
Where is the climb? Intersection Rock area.
What gear is needed for the climb? A standard rack with a focus on cams for crack protection.
How long is the climb? Approximately 160 feet.
How long is the approach? A 10-minute walk from the Intersection Rock parking area.
Where do I park for the climb? Intersection Rock parking area.
White Rastafarian - Wonderland South (5.9)
White Rastafarian is a Joshua Tree gem, offering a challenging mix of crack and face climbing. The route's white diorite provides unique holds and friction that will test your climbing skills.
Why Climb White Rastafarian? This climb's intriguing name is just the beginning of the adventure. Intermediate climbers will love the combination of crack and face moves on this route.
Route Details:
Where is the climb? Wonderland South area.
What gear is needed for the climb? A standard rack with a mix of gear for crack and face climbing.
How long is the climb? Approximately 100 feet.
How long is the approach? A 15-minute walk from the Wonderland South parking area.
Where do I park for the climb? Wonderland South parking area.
Daze of Gold - Lost Horse Area (5.8)
Daze of Gold is a classic Joshua Tree face climb known for its fun, varied moves. The route meanders up a striking face with plentiful holds and opportunities for creative climbing.
Why Climb Daze of Gold? This climb is pure joy. Intermediate climbers can bask in the glory of positive holds and exhilarating moves.
Route Details:
Where is the climb? Lost Horse Area.
What gear is needed for the climb? A standard rack with an emphasis on nuts and small to medium-sized cams.
How long is the climb? Approximately 100 feet.
How long is the approach? A 10-minute walk from the Lost Horse parking area.
Where do I park for the climb? Lost Horse parking area.
Illusion Dweller - Real Hidden Valley (5.10b)
Illusion Dweller is a challenging, sustained crack climb that rewards climbers with stunning views of Joshua Tree. Intermediate climbers looking to push their limits will find this route both demanding and satisfying.
Why Climb Illusion Dweller? This climb is a test of crack climbing skills and endurance. If you're up for the challenge, the rewards are unforgettable.
Route Details:
Where is the climb? Real Hidden Valley area.
What gear is needed for the climb? A standard rack with a focus on small to medium-sized cams.
How long is the climb? Approximately 120 feet.
How long is the approach? A 10-minute walk from the Real Hidden Valley parking area.
Where do I park for the climb? Real Hidden Valley parking area.
White Lightning - Wonderland South (5.7)
White Lightning offers a thrilling crack climbing experience that Joshua Tree is famous for. The route follows a prominent white dike with excellent crack features.
Why Climb White Lightning? This climb is a great introduction to crack climbing in Joshua Tree, with its straightforward yet engaging features.
Route Details:
Where is the climb? Wonderland South area.
What gear is needed for the climb? A standard rack with an emphasis on cams for crack protection.
How long is the climb? Approximately 100 feet.
How long is the approach? A 15-minute walk from the Wonderland South parking area.
Where do I park for the climb? Wonderland South parking area.
Atlantis - Lost Horse Area (5.11a)
Atlantis is an exhilarating sport climb featuring steep and juggy climbing on unique, dark rock. Intermediate climbers looking to test their endurance and bouldering skills will find this route highly rewarding.
Why Climb Atlantis? This climb offers a different style of climbing in Joshua Tree, with powerful and dynamic moves on steep terrain.
Route Details:
Where is the climb? Lost Horse Area.
What gear is needed for the climb? 8 to 10 quickdraws for bolts.
How long is the climb? Approximately 70 feet.
How long is the approach? A 15-minute walk from the Lost Horse parking area.
Where do I park for the climb? Lost Horse parking area.
Toe Jam - Real Hidden Valley (5.7)
Toe Jam is a Joshua Tree classic that every climber should experience. This offwidth climb challenges your technique and provides an unforgettable adventure up the iconic flake.
Why Climb Toe Jam? Climbing Toe Jam is like conquering a piece of climbing history. It's an opportunity to wrestle with the infamous flake and test your offwidth skills.
Route Details:
Where is the climb? Real Hidden Valley area.
What gear is needed for the climb? A standard rack with an emphasis on large cams for offwidth protection.
How long is the climb? Approximately 120 feet.
How long is the approach? A 10-minute walk from the Real Hidden Valley parking area.
Where do I park for the climb? Real Hidden Valley parking area.
Andrew casually working his way up a 5.7 in Yosemite Valley. Photo by Dalton Johnson
Joshua Tree National Park offers a plethora of climbing opportunities for intermediate climbers, each with its own unique character and challenges. Whether you're drawn to crack climbs, slab climbs, or steep sport routes, Joshua Tree has it all.
These top 10 must-climb routes will not only challenge your climbing abilities but also provide you with unforgettable memories of this iconic climbing destination. So, gear up and head to Joshua Tree to experience the thrill and beauty of these incredible routes. Your climbing adventure awaits!
