When Kristin and I were on a family vacation in Cerritos Beach, surfing and swimming filled most of our days. But we craved a change of pace and decided on a sunset hike to an abandoned sugar port near Todos Santos. What started as a spur-of-the-moment decision turned into the highlight of our trip, combining stunning views, historical intrigue, and an unforgettable sunset.
Starting the Journey
We arrived in the late afternoon, parking near a dilapidated building that marks the beginning of the trail. Local lore suggests this structure was once a storage hub for sugar, which was transported over the hill to a protected cove where ships awaited. The building’s crumbling walls and faded history set the tone for an adventure that felt like stepping back in time.
The hike began under a blazing sun. Normally, the Pacific Coast of Baja enjoys a cooling breeze, but on this day, the air was still. The uphill trek was sweaty and challenging, but we took our time, talking and soaking in the desert landscape. The trail winds through a rugged terrain of dry earth, scattered rocks, and resilient desert plants, creating a unique mix of stark beauty and subtle colors.
As we climbed, we passed a few fellow hikers heading back down. “You’re in for a treat at the top,” one of them said with a smile. Their encouragement gave us a boost, even as the climb tested our endurance.
Reaching the Cliffs
After about 30 minutes, we reached the top of the cliffs, where the cove spread out below us. It’s a serene sight, though hard to picture the cove bustling with ships loading sugar long ago. The remnants of the port are faint but still visible, adding a touch of history to the picturesque setting. The stillness of the water below contrasts with the dramatic cliffs, making it a place where past and present seem to coexist.
We considered hiking down to the water but decided against it since we were racing the sunset and only had our phone flashlights for the return journey. Instead, we explored the cliffs, savoring the view and solitude. Kristin and I spent time imagining what life must have been like when this cove was a hive of activity, with workers loading sugar onto ships destined for distant shores.
Discovering the Side Trail
Kristin’s sharp eyes spotted an undeveloped trail branching toward the cliffs overlooking the Pacific Ocean. “Hey, look over here! Do you want to explore this?” she asked, her excitement contagious.
“Yeah, let’s do it!” I replied, and off we went. The trail was rugged and required careful footing, but the effort was worth it. The landscape was dotted with cacti, their spines catching the golden light of the setting sun. Birds chirped in the distance, and the faint sound of waves crashing against the rocks below added to the atmosphere.
The trail led us closer to the edge, where the cliffs dramatically dropped into the ocean. Kristin and I stopped often to take in the views, pointing out small details like a unique cactus or the way the light danced on the water. It felt like the kind of place you could explore endlessly, each turn revealing something new.
The Sunset View
At the trail’s end, we reached a dramatic viewpoint. Looking north, we could see Todos Santos nestled along the coast, its charm evident even from a distance. Southward, the hills marked the start of Cerritos Beach, where we were staying. The cliffs dropped hundreds of feet into the ocean below, where seagulls and other birds soared. The cries of seals echoed from the water, adding to the magic of the moment.
Kristin and I sat together, mesmerized by the setting sun. The horizon blazed with hues of orange, pink, and purple. The ocean shimmered like liquid gold, reflecting the fading light. We wished we could freeze time, soaking in the beauty and peace of this magical spot. The scene was so captivating that we barely noticed the cool breeze that finally began to pick up, a refreshing reward for the day’s effort.
As we sat there, we talked about everything and nothing, savoring the rare chance to disconnect and simply be present. It’s moments like these that remind us why we love traveling and exploring together.
Returning Home
As the sun disappeared into the ocean, we knew it was time to head back. Retracing our steps to the main trail, we carefully made our way downhill to the car. The descent felt quicker, aided by the lingering glow of twilight and the satisfaction of having witnessed such a breathtaking sunset.
The journey back to our family felt lighter, our hearts full from the adventure. Kristin and I agreed that this hike was not just about the destination but the experience of sharing it together, creating memories that would last far beyond the trip.
Hike Details and Tips
Trailhead Location: The trail starts near a dilapidated building on the outskirts of Todos Santos, just a short drive from the main town center. This building is easily recognizable and has historical ties to the sugar trade in the area.
Distance: Approximately 4.7 miles round-trip, with the side trail making it slightly longer.
Elevation Gain: About 900 feet, with a steady incline.
Trail Conditions: The main path is well-worn but can be rocky and uneven. Side trails are less developed and require careful footing.
Difficulty: Moderate. The uphill climb can be challenging in the heat, but it’s manageable for hikers with basic fitness levels.
Timing: Start in the late afternoon to avoid the midday heat and catch the sunset at the cliffs. Plan for at least two hours to fully explore the trails and enjoy the views.
Footwear: Wear sturdy shoes; the trails are rocky and uneven. Proper footwear makes a significant difference, especially on the undeveloped paths.
Essentials: Bring plenty of water, snacks, and a flashlight for the return journey. Sunscreen and a hat are also advisable for the exposed trail.
Exploration: Allocate extra time to explore the undeveloped trails for unique views. These side paths often lead to the most rewarding spots.
Safety: Be mindful of your footing near the cliffs, especially if the wind picks up. Keep an eye on the time to ensure a safe return before it gets too dark.
Whether you're visiting Todos Santos for the first time or returning for another adventure, this hike offers a perfect blend of physical activity, stunning views, and a touch of history. Don’t forget to bring your camera to capture the sunset magic!
The hike to the cliffs of the abandoned sugar port is more than just a trail; it’s a journey through history, nature, and breathtaking beauty. Whether you’re a seasoned hiker or just looking for a peaceful escape, this sunset hike in Todos Santos is a must. The combination of stunning views, historical intrigue, and a touch of adventure makes it a perfect outing for anyone visiting the area. Kristin and I both agreed—it was the perfect change of pace from our beach days, and an adventure we’ll always cherish.